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JAPANESE DENIM - Autumn/Winter 2022

NIHON MENPU DARK PURE INDIGO RAINBOW SELVAGE DENIM
Composition: 100% Zimbabwean Cotton 
Origin: Japan
Weight: 13.5oz
Features: Slubby texture, Rainbow Selvage, Soft hand feel.

The Nihon Menpu Mill is one of Japan’s finest manufacturer that produces the highest quality denim from the land of the rising sun. The Zimbabwean cotton used for the fabric is regarded as one of the best to be used for a natural slubby yarn in denim. Nihon Menpu does all of their dying in-house and has used Pure Indigo for the dye, resulting in a slubby texture with a soft-hand feel.

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KURABO RED LISTED SELVAGE DENIM
Composition: 100% Cotton (6% Recycled)
Origin: Japan
Weight: 14oz
Features: Recycled Fabric, Red Selvage, 13/1 Right Hand Twill

This season, our classic 14oz red-listed fabric with a powerful but natural slub, has been weaved with 6% recycled cotton. Produced in Japan since 1970, by our long-lasting partner, Kurabo.

In 1973, Kurabo started manufacturing and selling it as the “KD-55”. KD-55 is authentic Japanese vintage denim that maintains the reddish blue colour and a special uneven character after washing, which was indicative of its time and revolutionized our industry.

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KAIHARA BLACK x BLACK STRETCH DENIM
Composition: Cotton blend
Origin: Japan 
Weight: 12.5oz

Features: Rope dyed

A usual suspect in our fabric catalogue. The Kaihara Black stretch denim comes from the same fabric family as his cousin the Pure Indigo Stretch denim but is slightly softer to the touch. The yarn that provides the stretch is made with a special method of covering it with polyurethane fibre. Due to this process, you end up with a sturdier fabric than usual.

After weaving, the fabric is dyed with ten dips of sulphur rope dye that gives it a rich and deep black colour.

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YOSHIKO LEFT HAND DENIM
Composition: 100% Cotton 
Origin: Japan
Weight: 12.6oz
Features: Sturdy, Soft hand-feel 


This Japanese fabric is woven in a Left-hand twill, a so-called S-Twill is woven in the exact opposite direction as Right-hand twill (the most common way to weave denim). Starting from the bottom right and moving up to the top left of the fabric. Because the yarns are weaved the other way around it gives you a softer hand feel. The result: more comfortable but still a tough fabric! The fabric is dipped seven times in 100% pure indigo.

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KAIHARA PURPLE x WHITE LISTED SELVAGE
Composition: Mix of US and Australian cotton, Rope dyed in Black Sulfur
Origin:  Japan
Weight: 11oz
Features: Purple Selvage

A mix of high-quality US and Australian cotton. The threads are Rope dyed in black Sulfur and is woven with an uneven thread count in the weft yarn. This gives it a more sturdy hand feel for a fabric of this weight class. Our partner Kaihara used a 60's inspired vintage purple selvage listing to finish this fabric with a unique look and feel.

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KAIHARA RIGHT-HAND BLACK DENIM
Composition: Mix of US and Australian  
Origin: Japan 
Weight: 13oz

Features: Marble texture

A mid-weight Black Denim made of a mixture of high-quality US and Australian cotton. By using an open-end Yarn inspired by a technique used for black denim in the early 80s, the fabric gets a Crepe-like appearance and marble texture when washed.

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KAIHARA PURE INDIGO STRETCH DENIM
Composition: Cotton blend
Origin: Japan 
Weight: 13oz
Features: Rope dyed

This fabric comes from the KAIHARA factory in Japan. To weave this fabric they use TOYODA G9 shuttle loom machines. The machines are over 40-years old but still deliver some of the highest quality weaving in the world.  

After weaving and dipping the fabric ten times in Pure Indigo, it is sanforised (pre-shrunk) to minimise shrinking when you wash your garment. The final step is to apply a heat-setting process to stabilize the stretch in this cotton blend fabric. This will result in a high-quality cotton blend fabric, once used for a pair of jeans, it will maintain its original shape and form for years to come. 

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MAINLINE - AUTUMN/WINTER 2022

NICOLA BLUE DENIM 
Composition: 100% Cotton 
Weight: 11.6oz
Features: Right-hand Twill construction, Midweight Denim

A comfortable mid-weight denim fabric that is excellent for a classic stonewash treatment. The result is a very 90's inspired marble look.

Because the warp yarn has been dipped in indigo 10 times, the base tone of the fabric is not that dark. Therefore the fabric washes down easily without the intense labour process that is normally behind a regular stone wash. In the end, this saves a lot of water without compromising the result. This Fabric is supplied by the Turkish Denim mill Orta Anadol. One of our long-lasting partners when it comes to Denim fabrics. Orta Anadol is GOTS, Oeko TEX, BCI and FAIRTRADE COTTON certified.

You can find this fabric used for our: COSMOS PANT, STORM PANT, TYRELL PANT and SWAINE ZIP JACKET.

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BACK SATEEN
Composition: 100% Cotton
Weight:
290g/m²
Features: Durable but with a soft hand-feel

A strong fabric, constructed in a satin weave and made of 100% Cotton. This results in a softer hand-feel but still makes it a durable fabric.
The satin weave gives the fabric a slight glow that you wouldn't otherwise achieve with a regular plain weave and is predominately used for our military-inspired programme.

For Autumn/Winter 22, we've used this fabric for our every-season returning styles: Manoeuvre Pant, Strategy II Jacket, Labour Dart Pant.

 

CHECK CLOTH BLENDED
Composition: 48% Polyester, 23% Acrylic, 14% Viscose, 12% Wool, 3% Elastane
Weight: 255g/m²
Origin: Italy
Features: Checkered Wool Fabric

A warm wool blend Fabric with a subtle fancy touch in the form of a pink line in the grey check. Produced in Italy from high-quality wool threads mixed with several synthetic fibres to make sure it's silky quality.

You can find this fabric used for our Aaren Jacket Lined, Tokyo Cap and Cliv Pant Half Lined.

 

FAKE FUR
Composition: 100% Polyester
Weight:
230g/m²
Features: soft, comfy, warm

A high-quality polyester from Portugal. This soft napped insulating fabric is ideal for cooler days: it's warm and soft to the touch to keep you warm and cosy during the colder months.

For Autumn/Winter 22, we've used this fabric for: Yonago Fleece Jacket Lined and the Kaiteki Half Zip Sweat.

 

VELVET FAUX UNI
Composition: 98% Cotton, 2% Elastan
Weight: 280g/m²
Origin: France
Features: silky hand feel, luminary

A beautiful heavy faux velvet fabric. Velvet today is usually made from synthetic and natural fibres, but it was originally made from silk. Pure silk velvet is rare today, as it's extremely expensive. Our cotton velvet has ben developed with a small percentage of Elastane that results in very soft, reflective fabric in a Deep Navy Color.

You can find this fabric used for our Midnight Jacket, Midnight Shirt, Midnight Cap and Cliv Pant.